Home > Electronics, FPV, Programming, RC Planes, Uncategorized > DIY Remote shutter release for Samsung NX-series cameras

DIY Remote shutter release for Samsung NX-series cameras

I’m using Samsung NX1000 for aerial photography. The camera has a nifty feature of using smartphone as a remote viewfinder and shutter release but unfortunately the good idea is watered by buggy and limited program and the feature freezes the whole camera all too often. Fortunately there is a simple way of triggering the shutter via cameras usb-port. The trick is to have 68K resistor between ID and GND pins. After this USB data lines can be used to trigger camera focus and shutter.

shutter

Schematic

Tip: If you have spare micro-usb cables, it’s easy to source a connector from the cable that came with the camera. Just squeeze black plastic around the connector with a pliers and the plastic casing will crack open exposing the connector. The connector on the cable has a small pcb, which makes it easy to solder the required resistor in place. If you use smd resistor, the casing can even be reassembled.

The cable described above works fine for manual use, but to use the camera for aerial photography some interface for rc receiver is needed. Fortunately this is easily achieved with a small arduino program, which reads pwm value from receiver servo port and then pulls either shutter or focus line low based on channel value. The compiled code size is under two kilobytes, so it’s possible to use small and inexpensive microcontroller like AtTiny2313.

rc_interface

RC interface for camera

The schematics and sources can be found at: https://gitorious.org/nxshutter/nxshutter

Compatible with (at least) following models: NX20, NX210, NX1000, NX1100 and NX2000

As with other hardware in this blog, if you need one and don’t want to make one yourself, drop me a message and we’ll see what we can do!

Update: If you don’t want to make your own, I’m selling these ready made. Just drop me a message.

Shutter PCB's

Shutter PCB’s

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  1. 05/16/2013 at 23:14

    Would like to try this myself. Any chance you could share a picture of your modified USB cable?

  2. 05/16/2013 at 23:37

    Unfortunately I already reassembled the connector and sealed it with heat shrink tubing. But as said, if you crack open the original connector, there is a small pcb inside, with just enough space for smd resistor between id and gnd pins.

  3. Jaka
    05/23/2013 at 23:07

    I have a Mikrokopter with shutter cable for Nikon. Now I need shutter cable for NX1000. Can you build it for me?

    • 05/23/2013 at 23:26

      If you can spare 25€, why not! Send me an email, if you need one. The address is on the about page.

      • Tahir Karaşahin
        06/01/2013 at 18:56

        Could u build it for me too? How many days does it take and do u also have a paypal?
        Thanks in advance.

      • 06/03/2013 at 09:32

        Hi! Yes, I can. I’m quite busy this week, but I think I can get one ready by the weekend. My paypal address is the same email, that is found at the about page. If you live in the EU area, I prefer bank transfer though.

  4. mark
    06/14/2013 at 17:30

    hi
    can this be used for a laser line to then trigger the shutter , if so can you make one up please.
    thanks
    mark

    • 06/14/2013 at 17:39

      Do you mean that you would have something like a laser pointer targeted to a sensor and if the beam breaks, the camera would be triggered?

  5. mark
    06/14/2013 at 21:28

    yes that’s the thing i am looking for,
    thanks
    can you do one.

  6. Marek
    06/16/2013 at 11:42

    Hi, I’m using NX1000 for aerial photography also, have you consider supplying GPS info through HotShoe connector so the images would georeferece automatically? I am using U-blox GPS with APM 2.5.
    Thanks, Marek

    • 06/17/2013 at 09:59

      I also thought about this. The problem is that nobody seems to have figured out how the hotshoe gps transmits the data to the camera. I don’t own the accessory gps myself, so I can’t reverse-engineer it.

  7. Neoh Chee Kong
    06/25/2013 at 18:00

    Hi Antibore,
    Can NX1000 ‘s Micro USB output support video downlink ? Can the samsung remote viewfinder be able to transfer the live video down to your smartphone at a ht of 300m?

    • 06/29/2013 at 12:34

      No to both of the questions.

  8. Kong
    06/26/2013 at 19:32

    If you’re using Remote Viewfinder to transfer the video signal to your smartphone then, is the video signal be able reach your smartphone if your FPV platform reaches about 200~300m above?

    • 06/29/2013 at 11:49

      I’m not using remote viewfinder, since it freezes too often to be usable. The wlan range is also too limited.

  9. andre
    07/12/2013 at 12:42

    how do i load the code and where do get it from

  10. 08/19/2013 at 01:26

    I am looking at your program loop and trying to figure out how the camera responds to focus and shutter lines pulled to ground. When I try this the camera does not respond to just the shutter line grounded. Nor does it respond when both focus and shutter are grounded.

    Do you know if you have to pull focus low before shutter? For how long? Do you need to keep focus line low during the shutter low? How did you figure that out?

    • 08/19/2013 at 08:49

      One thing I noticed is that the camera is quite picky about the id resistor value. I did not have the original cable, so I could not reverse engineer the correct value. Try playing around with a different values, 80k might be a good pick. With most values, the shutter works, but focus might not. When testing, you can eliminate the avr as an error source and just manually touch ground wire with a focus wire. Make sure you have latest firmware and SD-card installed when testing the cable.

  11. 08/19/2013 at 16:33

    Thanks for the reply. I figured this out. First off my camera is the NX300 (which does respond the the same usb remote as all the others). But I have the lens removed from the camera because of the application (a 35mm film telecine) and a 50mm Lomo OCT-19 physically de-coupled from the camera body on a sliding rod rack. So although the lens present plunger pin has been closed with a small piece of inserted plastic inside the rim of the lens mount thus allowing the camera to fire, the gold contacts that would normally talk to the lens electronics are disconnected. This makes the camera operate wrong in full Manual mode. You set the ISO and the the shutter speed but the shutter speed still auto adjusts.

    To get around this I have the camera in Shutter Priority mode and it works fine. I think that it is actually attempting to set the aperture of the lens and failing during focus button push but it continues to allow manual ISO and shutter speed. In this mode the USB remote signals require that you first close the focus to ground and then very shortly thereafter close the shutter. I ended up with only needing a 100 microsecond delay between them and then only a 5000 microsecond shutter line closure to properly actuate the the image capture. Then both lines are opened again.

    I have the lines driven by a Velleman K8055 I/O USB board and a Perl program running on the connected laptop. Seems to work great. Your DIY instructions were a big time saver for me.

    I believe that the 68k resistor is the correct value. There are 3 possible values listed for OTP cables. This link http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_On-The-Go states:

    “Three additional ID pin states are defined[4] at the nominal resistance values of 124 kΩ, 68 kΩ, and 36.5 kΩ, with respect to the ground pin. These permit the device to work with a USB Accessory Charger Adapter which allows the OTG device to be attached to both a charger and another device simultaneously.[6] These three states are used in the cases of:

    A charger and either no device or an A-device that is not asserting VBUS (not providing power) are attached. The OTG device is allowed to charge and initiate SRP but not connect.[6]
    A charger and an A-device that is asserting VBUS (is providing power) are attached. The OTG device is allowed to charge and connect but not initiate SRP.[6]
    A charger and a B-device are attached. The OTG device is allowed to charge and enter host mode.[6]”

    Ray

  12. mangaboy73
    11/02/2013 at 01:11

    antibore :
    If you can spare 25€, why not! Send me an email, if you need one. The address is on the about page.

    I’m interested too.
    i sent you an email

    • 11/04/2013 at 12:14

      Replied, I can make you one.

  13. mangaboy73
    11/02/2013 at 14:33

    antibore :
    If you can spare 25€, why not! Send me an email, if you need one. The address is on the about page.
    </blockquote

    Jaka :
    I have a Mikrokopter with shutter cable for Nikon. Now I need shutter cable for NX1000. Can you build it for me?

    Hello Antibore,
    I need it too, for my nx20.
    I sent you an email.

  14. Bitcoinvzla
    12/24/2013 at 16:21

    Hello, i see you are delving deep into the samsung nx series. You know, i have an NX210 and i recently bought 2 yongnuos YN 560 III but they refuse to fire from the hot shoe, the work great in slave mode. i like them so much that i’m willing to go into the electronics to try to make them work from my nx hot shoe. do you happen to know the NX’s hotshoe pinout?

    • 12/24/2013 at 23:17

      Sorry, I don’t know it. I searched for it for a quite bit myself, I was interested how the image is transfered to electronic viewfinder. Currently I’m trying to sell my NX1000. I grew tired to autofocus, which fails most of the time in the dark.

  15. Fabio Lobo
    01/28/2014 at 22:43

    Hello. I have got a NX300 to do aerial mapping with the pixhawk autopilot.
    There is a port on the autopilot that is aimed to shoot the camera within a predeterminaded time or ground space in meters…
    My question is: can I simply plug the cable into the camera and into the autopilot to shot my photos? Or I will have to do some custom on the cable, inserting the 64k resitor?… Or I will not be able to shot directly from the autopilot signal….
    Thank’s

    • 01/29/2014 at 20:59

      At least you have to have the resistor between usb id-pin and ground, otherwise the camera assumes that the cable is a standard usb-cable and not the shutter. Also make sure that pixhawk only pulls usb-pins low and does not supply current to them.

  16. 02/12/2014 at 23:47

    Dear friend … i m also interested in connecting my nx 1000 to pixhawk for aerial photography. I tried to make such a cable but it was impossible for me to solder one . I m not good at it. What if i bought this … http://www.samsung.com/uk/consumer/smart-camera-camcorder/smart-nx/smart-nx-accessories/ED-SR2NX02 … and used the cable only to connect it to pixhawk by removing the upper part of the buttons and connecting it to futaba cable. Is there any way you could sell me such a cable ( i guess arduino is not required) in order to connect it to my pixhawk ? (i think it’s the same with apm). I live in Greece. If so what would be the price ?

    • 02/13/2014 at 13:47

      I did this previously for Mikrokopter board. You need an optocoupler between the camera and Pixhawk, like this (http://mikrokopter.de/ucwiki/en/ShutterCable). I can make you one, but I don’t have PCB designed it so it would be build to strip board. The price would be 29€ + 3€ for postage. Unfortunately I can’t provide you connector to pixhawk since I don’t have those in stock and the minimum order quantity seems to be quite large, so you’d also need something like this: http://www.uavrobotics.com.au/camera-cable-connector-p-77.html?osCsid=e1860bc58b95ca08ae8ace019aedfb5f

      • 02/13/2014 at 15:15

        But the only way to trigger the nx1000 is via usb i think. I can solder the futaba cable required on the one side of the optocoupler but according to your post i also need the construction u made with the 68k resistor. In this price will you provide me with the full package (apart from futaba cable) that will be functioning as long as i plug it on the camera and on pixhawk ?

      • 02/14/2014 at 15:37

        I can provide the usb-cable and optocoupler. You would need to provide the cable from pixhawk to servo connector.

  17. Bart Prins
    03/01/2014 at 15:19

    Hello Janne,
    Thank you for the well designed pcb you sent to me. (NL)

    I have got a question:
    The pcb you sent me got a id resistor code 823 = 82k
    The resistor in your schematic on top of this page is 68k

    Could this be the reason why my Samsung NX300 does not work with your pcb ?

    Any suggestions concerning range of the id resistor ?

    Any people here with a Samsung NX300 and a working remote shutter/focus pcb ?

    Thanks,

    Bart

    • 03/03/2014 at 16:49

      68k is the one used in the official remote. I have used 82k instead since I haven’t the 68k in my set and my NX1000 seems to not mind. It might be that NX300 is more picky about that. Can you try to change the resistor? Also just to be sure, try to short the focus and/or shutter lines to ground by hand to see if anything happens.
      Also have SD-card in the camera when trying it out. NX1000 let’s you take the pictures without SD but for some reason the remote shudder does not work without it.

  18. Bart
    03/10/2014 at 22:55

    Samsung NX300:
    Hi Janne,
    Allready tested by hand with 68k resistor on my NX300: This works.
    Tried with several values of resistor above/under 68k (E12 resistor range) on the pcb but the Samsung NX300 does not give any reaction. (leds on pcb are on/of during switching)
    I think the NX300 is to picky concerning triggering in a different way..
    Any last suggestions ?

    • 03/11/2014 at 11:43

      If you tested that 68k resistor works, can you solder it to the pcb in place of the current resistor? There should be enough place even if you don’t have the smd version. I’ll make sure to use 68k in future pcb’s

      • Bart
        03/12/2014 at 01:13

        Allready did solder the 68k on the pcb… Doesn’t work.. (but leds acting ok)
        Voltage drop/resistance in AtTiny2313 to high ? (I’m just guessing)

      • 03/12/2014 at 01:24

        What the hell then.. The attiny should pull the lines to ground when active and other times they are left floating so voltage drop should not also be an issue. I was thinking how to verify this..

  19. jussi leistiö
    03/12/2014 at 18:57

    Hi,
    Nice post. I’m alsi using nx1000 with hexacopter, here in Finland. How much do you charge of your shutters? And have you figured out how to use only nx1000 for fpv flight?
    Terveisin
    Jussi

    • 03/12/2014 at 19:03

      To Finland I can send one for 25€, including postal. Fpv is a problem since you can’t get live feed from hdmi and wlan has limited range and bugs. That leaves only the accessory connector outputting viewfinder image, but the protocol is unknown. Drop me a mail if you need one!

  20. Fabio Lobo
    03/26/2014 at 19:47

    Hello. Could the NXshooter 2.1 (I have got it from you by ebay) used on the situation showed on http://plane.ardupilot.com/wiki/common-pixhawk-auto-camera-trigger-without-chdk/ ?
    Could you post some videos to show how we use the product….

    • 03/26/2014 at 19:54

      @fabio: Sorry, I can’t post videos as I don’t have Pixhawk, but since pixhawk seems to be able to output pwm (servo signal) as camera output, it should work straight away with the shutter board. Just instead of the receiver, connect the board to pixhawk aux output. Follow the configuration guide on the page for which you posted the link.

  21. Anonymous
    03/28/2014 at 03:46

    According to the specs of my previous note, the PWM value for the state ‘push’ is on the value 1800… I tryed it with the cable connected to the pcb and nothing happens… Is thare a specifc value to enter, so the pcb will know that I want to push de botton to trigger the camera?

    • 03/28/2014 at 15:59

      I don’t remember the exact pwm values, but connect it to your receiver, check that both leds light up for one second after power is switched on. Then increase channel value, green led should switch on when focus is activated and red for the shutter.
      One user reported that some cameras are more picky for id resistor value. If the leds work properly, but the camera does not react, change the id resistor (near the connectors) to 68k ohms.

  22. Fabio Lobo
    03/28/2014 at 04:26

    How could I test the pcb? Can I use a some kind of ‘metal stick’ to force it to focus and shoot my camera? I am realy having troubles to make it work… Can you draw a schema to test the pcb?

    • 03/28/2014 at 16:01

      The schematic is in the post. I should update it to the version with leds. You can manually activate the shutter and focus by shorting black wire and white wire (focus) or black & red (shutter)

  23. 04/06/2014 at 06:29

    Hello Antibore, I consider a very very good camera Samsung Nx1000, shooting in F;8 aperture it takes very sharp images, But now my questios is; if could II take live video from it for fpv, while also taking remote photographs with it?. If yes I want to buy you a shutter pcb. Thanks Julián from Argentina

    • 04/06/2014 at 15:59

      Check from the camera specs (I don’t own nx1000 anymore, but I don’t think it can shoot video and stills at the same time)

      • Joe Paisley
        06/26/2014 at 13:46

        That’s correct. If you start the video, then hit the remote shutter. The camera will take a still and stop the video. So you can take video for the first part of the flight, with not start/stop control, then switch to stills, with control, for the later part.

  24. evgeny
    04/18/2014 at 09:59

    how to modify scetch for arduino nano?

    • 04/18/2014 at 10:25

      Hi! Sorry, I’m currently in Vegas and don’t have my laptop with me, but I think this will get you started: http://code.google.com/p/arduino-tiny/
      Compile the code for attiny2313. You also need some isp programmer, although I think you can wire normal arduino board to act as a programmer.

  25. evgeny
    05/01/2014 at 10:53

    hello ! i have succes with ardiuno) but one more – how can i get video out frome same usb cable? For live preview.

    • 05/01/2014 at 12:44

      IMHO that’s not possible.

      • evgeny
        05/01/2014 at 13:43

        so you fly and shoot with samsung nx, and dont see that you shoot?) how did you fix this problem?

      • 05/01/2014 at 14:55

        I eventually stopped using nx1000 after figuring out how the remote shutter works and investing money to hdmi-> composite adapter only to find out that the camera does not output live picture. I learned again valuable lesson to use google before doing anything..

  26. grkats
    05/01/2014 at 16:24

    What is hdmi output for then ?

    • 05/01/2014 at 16:50

      It can be only used to watch taken pictures, it does not output viewfinder

      • grkats
        05/01/2014 at 17:22

        damn

      • grkats
        05/01/2014 at 17:23

        So for live view only wifi application on tablet is the option ?

      • 05/01/2014 at 17:26

        As far as I see, yes.

  27. Bambang haryanto
    05/10/2014 at 12:23

    I want to order 1 ea shutter pcb. Send me your account number for payment to my email b.harrianto@gmail.com

  28. Bambang haryanto
    05/13/2014 at 04:42

    Whats your accnt bank and id for payment.
    Do you know hot shoe pinout for samsung nx210?
    I cannot find the sync pulse from center pin in hot shoe, but have a pulse 0.5v 0.2msec in right up 4pin hot shoe during shutter half pulse auto focus.

    • 05/13/2014 at 07:35

      Hi! Could you check your spam folder, I sent the payment info a couple of days ago.
      Unfortunately I haven’t played with the hot shoe, so I don’t have more information about that.

  29. 05/24/2014 at 20:51

    Hey I am interested in buying ready made one compatible for NX1000 & NX2000

    e-mail me djrobmaye@gmail.com with details please/

    Thanks!

  30. Edwin Soto
    06/05/2014 at 05:53

    Hello im trying to copile the code in arduino and i get the following error:
    shutter.ino: In function ‘void loop()’:
    shutter:37: error: ‘UCSRB’ was not declared in this scope.

    any help will be greatly apreciated. thanks

    • 06/05/2014 at 09:03

      Hi! This happens because you are trying to compile the code for atmega328 or similar processor, which has UCSR0B register instead. If you are actually using AtTiny2313 processor, you need to install support for it to arduino (https://code.google.com/p/arduino-tiny/). If you want to use some other processor, you can safely comment out that line, it’s just turns off the serial port. In that case modify the pin definitions as needed.

  31. Joe Paisley
    06/09/2014 at 18:13

    I have a couple extra after making one for myself. Works well with my NX300.

    • Anonymous
      07/12/2014 at 05:17

      What do you have made? The shooter is working on the NX300?

  32. Neil
    06/26/2014 at 00:33

    Thank you , your top diagram is exactly what I have been looking for, nice and clear.
    I have read that the nx usb can be used for charging, do you know anything about this? I’m hoping it would power the cam from this rather than trying to charge the internal battery.
    I’m researching into making a side grip to contain 2 or 3 batteries and a focus/shoot button

    • 06/26/2014 at 09:19

      Thank you!
      I’m fairly sure that the camera can’t be charged from USB-port, but if that’s possible, positive wire in usb connector is not used by the shutter, so feel free to supply current using that.

  33. Makin
    06/26/2014 at 03:26

    Hey I am interested in buying ready made one compatible for Samsung NX mini

    e-mail me makindo.2000@gmail.com with details please/

    Thanks!

  1. 05/13/2013 at 00:01
  2. 05/13/2013 at 00:06
  3. 05/13/2013 at 00:16
  4. 05/13/2013 at 11:38
  5. 05/13/2013 at 20:00

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